Balaw Balaw. The lakeshore's answer to Pampanga's buro. Enjoy it as a side dish or as is with steaming rice
Binarutak is a typical fisherman's meal. Fishermen bring their packed rice on their boats and cook whatever they catch while out at the lake. In Binagonan, this dish is called pinugutan and in Taytay, pinarusahan, as the shrimps are beheaded then their heads crushed to extract the juice
Story Annie Z. Nisce
Photography Ed Simon
Additional information from Wikipedia, the Free Encyclopedia
There must be something about that lake. Locals agree that it has never been the same, especially since last year's howler sunk portions of the towns along Laguna de Bay. Old timers backtrack further. They recall how, as kids, they survived by the day through "freebies" tossed to them by fishermen coming in with their early morning haul. The local biya, example, used to be a poor man's fodder but now has become so rare and therefore expensive, due to overfishing.
Nevertheless, the romance of the lake remains and beckons. One can't deny that from this pastoral setting sprung some of the country's greatest creative minds.
The prehistory of Angono town already says much. The Angono Petroglyphs, discovered in 1965 by distinguished Angono artist Carlos "Botong" Francisco, is said to be the oldest known Filipino work of art. The stylized drawings on rock of 100 human and reptilian figures date to around 3000 BC. The Philippine government declared it a national cultural treasure in 1973.
Nineteenth century artist Juan "Tandang Juan" Senson, is regarded as Angono's Grand Old Man of Art; Carlos Francisco (1912-1969), National Artist for the Visual Arts (1973), was famous for his murals that depict historical scenes, like Blood Compact and First Mass at Limasawa; National Artist for Music (1991), professor and composer, best known for the lullaby Sa Ugoy ng Duyan, Lucio San Pedro (1913-2002); and Jose "Pitok" Blanco, nominee for National Artist and distinguished for his murals of daily life in Angono--all are Angono natives. Why even Kapampangan painter and National Artist Vicente Manansala chose nearby Binangonan town, in a spot overlooking the lake, to be his home.
These greats may have passed on to contemplate their muses face-to-face but the Angono art scene remains vibrant with the younger generation of artists. Among them, Nemiranda, who painted the mural of the People Power Revolution in the Our Lady of Peace Shrine in Ortigas and multi-media artist Orville Tiamson.
Needless to say, the Art Capital of the Philippines should be your first stop. Located some 30 kilometers east of Pasig City, drive straight through Ortigas Extension and take the main road past Tikling. Or simply board any public transport going to Angono at the Shaw Boulevard or SM Megamall terminals in Pasig. It's a 45-minute ride, depending on what time you leave. Your best bet is to get moving by eight AM.
If you are in for feasting, visit Angono on November 22 and 23, the feast of St Clement, patron of fishermen. The dates usually coincide with the bigger feast of Christ the King, so you're in for a treat. On the morning of the 23rd, after a concelebrated mass with the bishop of Antipolo, join the colorful procession of devotees, parehadoras (young girls in native garb holding boat paddles dancing to the music of the town band), higantes (papier mache giants) to accompany the images of Sts Clement and Isidore and the Blessed Virgin Mary to the banks of Laguna de Bay. There, everyone board a special boat called a pagoda for a fluvial procession that ends on the other side of the lake, where the now-soaked devotees carry on with the merry making all the way to the church. Another important feast is May 15, feast of St Isidore, patron of laborers, where the townsfolk flaunt their carabao higantes.
Learn more about the three provinces in Rizal in the July 2010 issue of Appetite!
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